We’re one step closer to holodecks and transporters, NZXT unleashes their latest accessory to the PC market today. The Sentry LXE is a touch screen LCD fanbus allowing users to dial in the speed of each fan; also maintaining other functions such as date and time.
The LCD is fully adjustable with the ability to disable the display when gaming to enhance the atmosphere. 5 thermal probes monitor active temps for hot pockets of air allowing for users to dial in the Sentry to provide more flow. The whole package is sleek and reminds me of a Star Trek interface.
The Sentry LXE will be in stores soon with an MSRP of $59.99
Rock Band is quite an entertaining game it brings everyone together to click and clack their way to high scores and have a good group moment. Unfortunately people also get a bit carried away and often the casualty to the outing is the kick pedal on the drum kit. For some reason Harmonix didn’t exactly gauge how much people would really play the kit, as a result kicks started breaking like crazy and people started wandering to find replacements or decent fixes.
While there are many popular methods out there to fashion your own MDF plate or even metal plate and screw it in, not everyone is that savy and sometimes a splint and some tape might be the best option available.
Enter the handy fix, steel hard drive rails, they’re about $2 on the internet (Directron.com) and they’ll do well for this fix, I already had a pair in my parts box so I went ahead from here.
The Rock Band kick pedal generally breaks just before the spring, the plastic is unsupported and just floats for the most part while there’s a huge amount of tension that comes out of the toe portion. Using a rail on each side one is able to form a strong support that absorbs the flex and distributes it through both sides. If your RB1 kick hasn’t broken yet then this is even more ideal so that you can save it before it does.
The first thing to do though is pull off the steel tabs at the top of the rail, these will just get in the way of things later on, once the tabs are off we’ll go forward.
The rails we used were just over 1/2 an inch wide, as a result they dont go far enough over to actually interfere with the spring. place the rail with the edge just supporting the outside of the pedal, basically hooking it as a guide if you’re not sure if it looks right check out the attached pictures, the goal of the rail is to have about 50% of it on each side of the break in the plastic, if the bottom is hitting just slide it until it closes properly, keep in mind that if the pedal can’t make a complete press then it wont register. At this point I used packing tape to secure the single rail just slightly so it wouldn’t flop off, duct tape or electrical tape should work just as well, make sure that it’s secured first before proceeding to do the same to the other side of the pedal, one rail isn’t enough to support it and things will only get strange from there.
If the pedal is being a pain to cooperate you can bunch up some socks or grab a shoe and shove it at the end of the pedal, this should bring it back to alignment with the base section of the broken pedal. If need be ask someone to help hold things still as you strap it down with tape.
Once both sides are secured, start applying longer strips of tape on the top and bottom of the pedal, wrap it about 3-4 times tightly and things should be good to go. Push down on the pedal with your hand and the pressure should be absorbed with no more flex from the breaking point.
This is a bit of a quick and dirty guide but for $2 and some tape I don’t think we can polish that much. This current fix has been steady in heavy use for about 3 months now. I have to thank Franks for the initial info on how to get things working again.
Lately it seems I’ve been building a lot of systems, many being systems on a budget to get the most power for their money right now. While some may leap on me and note that I should just start pimping out Intel and saying the i7 is the only way to go, I’m not gonna do that simply because for under the price of an i7 920 and X58 motherboard you can build an entire system minus OS and we’re about to prove that right now.
It’s not the prettiest of choices but it gets the job done.
Case: HEC 6C28BBX585 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Case
Power: HEC 585W Power supply
Motherboard: ASRock A780GMH/128M AM2+ / AM3 MATX
CPU: AMD Phenom II X3 720 2.8GHz AM3 Tri-Core
GPU: Powercolor AX4850 512MB PCIe
Memory: Crucial 4GB DDR2 800 (PC6400)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000.B 250GB SATA 3.0Gb/s
The ASRock board is a shortcut here, many reports confirm that the model is able to use ACC to unlock the 4th core on the 720BE as such the user is able to score a 2.8GHz Quad core on the cheap and the whole build on Newegg runs $481.93 in comparison the i7 920 with zotac motherboard runs $483.98 not including video / ram / hdd / etc.
I would say that for the college gamer this is a decent rig to have around, it’ll be reliable and it’ll be able to play the newest games for the next few years with maybe a new video upgrade as that 4th year rolls around. Really for anyone on a budget this system should deliver quite a punch.
It would be cool if we could actually produce and test this machine first-hand but unfortunately budget isn’t allowing for that right now.